This article was originally published after I hacked the ENJE roller blinds, now discontinued. They were replaced by a newer model, introduced in the 2017 IKEA catalog drop. The new SKOGSKLÖVER roller blinds are made of the same solar mesh and can be hacked in almost exactly the same way. Here’s how you do it.
“How did I come to hack the Ikea solar roller blinds? It’s a long story that starts with why roller blinds are the perfect window treatment for a midcentury home and ends with I couldn’t find window treatments the right size and price that better suit the spare architecture of our mid-century home.
If you have non-standard size windows like we do, custom window treatments can cost upwards of $400 per window. You’d be hard pressed to find something more suitable than the IKEA, even at bespoke prices.
The IKEA SKOGSKLÖVER and ENJE blinds are made of a semi-opaque solar fabric that filters light without completely blocking it. When raised, they simply disappear into the wall. I love the spareness, the lack of cord, and the smooth spring loaded mechanicals. Even the pulls and the aluminum rails are good-looking. They have the look and hand feel of a much more expensive product.
And did I mention the price? $20-$43, depending on the size. Where Enje came in a standard 64″ length and variable widths of 23″, 30″, 32″, 34″, 36″, 38″ and 48″. SKOGSKLÖVER has an additional one at 27″:
W23×L76¾” $19.99 203.145.99
W27×L76¾” $22.99 803.146.00
W30×L76¾” $27.99 203.146.03
W32×L76¾” $29.99 003.146.04
W34×L76¾” $32.99 303.146.07
W36×L76¾” $36.99 103.146.08
W38×L76¾” $39.99 303.146.12
W48×L76¾” $42.99 103.146.13
Most of our windows are standard 34″ wide, but the “bay” in the master bedroom has narrow 18″ side windows. And in the bathroom we have a 17″ wide window. The smallest size available at IKEA is 23″ wide, but they can be easily hacked down. The roller and rail are both aluminum, which can be cut with a standard hacksaw. The mesh can be removed from the roller and cut with a sewing scissors, then adhered back onto the roller and rails.
- Measuring tape
- Sand bar or sand paper
- Staple remover
- Box cutter
Step 1: Measure the width of your window box. Mine is 18″.
Step 2: Decide whether you’re hanging the hardware from the top or the sides. My walls are very old plaster that has a tendency to crumble. As we’re cutting these to fit, I’ll put screws and anchors in both the top and the side.
|Right side is 3/4″|
Step 3: Measure the roller shade with the hardware on and note how many inches the hardware takes up. I’m measuring 3/4″ on the right and 1/4″ on the left. But Ikea changes their products from time to time so do not rely on my measurements.
|Left side is 1/4″|
My hardware takes up 1″ altogether. Given my window boxes are 18″ wide and subtracting an additional 1/4″ for give, I cut roller, rail, and fabric 16-3/4″ and that worked out perfectly for my 18″ width windows.
Step 4: Remove the end caps on the roller.
Enje: The left side contains the spring mechanism. If you decide to make all your cuts on the right side, you do not even have to remove the left cap and spring.
Skogsklover: The spring mechanism is also on the left hand side of these blinds. When you unscrew and detach the wall/ceiling bar at the top of the blinds, it’s important to make sure you hold on tight to the end cap on the LHS and note roughly how much the blind is unrolled. Then count the revolutions as you untwist the LHS end cap — you’ll need to re-twist this the same number of times at the end with the blind unrolled by the same amount when putting it all back together. (Commenters add that five revolutions should do it.)
Note: Sometimes the spring mechanism gets unwound and stops working. Commenters have a tip in this case: Remove the metal tube on the bottom and “fake” rolling down the blind. Keep the blind on the roller, without letting the fabric down. As you rotate the blind in the down position, after several turns, put the metal tube back in its position and you’re done.
Step 5: Remove the fabric from the roller. (This is easy; the fabric glue remains on the fabric and makes reassembling the fabric to the roller quite easy later.)
Pull firmly at each side until the stretchy glue gives and you have separated the roller from the fabric.
Skogsklover option: Commenters found they didn’t need to unstick the entire width of the blind from the roller. Mark out how much you need to cut off by wrapping a bit of tape around a ruler at the correct width, then you can gently push this up against the edge of the fabric, making sure it’s straight by holding it against a right angle. Use tape to mark this all the way from the bottom to the top, measuring from the side at regular intervals. When you reach the roller at the top, carry the tape on around the roller. This is a lot easier with two people. You can then cut the length of the fabric, using the edge of the tape as your guide and use a Stanley knife or sharp blade to cut the excess fabric away from the roller and gently peel it away from the glue.
Note: Make sure you protect the fabric when sawing through the roller, especially if using a circular table saw, or else the metal dust that comes off might burn little holes in the fabric.
Step 6: Pencil mark the roller and make your cut.
Step 7: Sand the end of the roller smooth. (I used a painter’s block.)
Step 8: Now, the lower rail. Remove the plastic end caps from the lower rail.
Step 10: Remove the staples from the plastic strip and free the fabric.
Step 12: Lay the fabric out on a flat surface, measure and mark it. I like to make a small pencil mark every six inches to give myself a dotted line to follow with scissors.